Cape Town is firmly in its matcha era. Cafés are whisking it, customers are photographing it, and every second lifestyle brand seems to have its own green powder on the shelves. But beneath the excitement lies an imbalance: much of the matcha sold locally is not ceremonial, and a significant portion is not Japanese in origin. Jess, tea sommelier and founder of Alchemy of Tea, has spent 15 years in the tea trade. Her intention is not to call anyone out, but to give customers the context they deserve so they can make informed choices. We sat down over two different cups of matcha to explore what’s really happening in South Africa’s growing matcha landscape.

Jess’s entry into tea started with a need for a more meaningful path. With limited resources, she bought a 1975 caravan and turned it into a mobile tea room — the first iteration of what would later become both her retail brand and her brick-and-mortar spaces.

Her travels through Japan, China, and South Korea were driven by a desire to learn the practice of tea itself, not to find answers for customers.

Over time, she began studying chanoyu, the Japanese Way of Tea, under recognised teachers. This training is ongoing and remains an active part of her life rather than something completed in the past. 

In its truest sense, ceremonial matcha refers to the earliest spring buds and the refined grades that follow. These leaves are shade-grown, carefully processed, and stone-ground at slow, deliberate speeds to protect their structure and flavour. These higher grades are often used within days in Japan.

Authenticity is simpler: it refers to matcha that is genuinely Japanese. A brand can be entirely honest and responsible even when selling culinary matcha, as long as it clearly states the grade and origin.

A significant portion of ceremonial-grade matcha never leaves Japan — around 80%, including what is purchased by Japanese retail brands themselves. The remaining amount is shared among the entire global market.

This doesn’t mean every non-Japanese or culinary product is dishonest; many businesses are transparent and thoughtful in how they label and source their matcha. Acknowledging these responsible players is important.

But it does mean that the amount of genuine ceremonial matcha available worldwide is limited.

When every café or retailer markets their product as ceremonial, it becomes clear that some of what is being sold is more likely a higher-end culinary grade, or matcha grown outside Japan, simply labelled for appeal.

Transparency helps everyone, customers, cafés, and the broader industry.

Jess encourages focusing on the elements that genuinely indicate quality or honesty:

• Origin clarity: Japanese matcha should list a Japanese growing region.

• Grade transparency: ceremonial vs. culinary should be stated accurately.

• Texture: finer grades feel soft and talc-like.

• Taste: genuine Japanese matcha has rounded umami and gentle sweetness, rather than immediate sharp bitterness.

• Price alignment: true first-flush shaded tencha has a cost that reflects its labour and rarity.

She also notes that colour alone can be misleading; taste, label transparency, and appropriate application matter more.

Jess sees a mix of enthusiasm and early-stage development. Some people approach matcha as a nourishing ritual, while others enjoy it through cafés and creative drinks. Both are valid expressions of modern tea culture. Her hope is to see more awareness of which grades suit which uses, because this empowers customers and encourages businesses to be more intentional.

While matcha trends often centre on visuals, Jess emphasises that many people value matcha deeply and adapt it with respect. Highlighting those who are doing things well helps inspire broader change.
The goal is not perfection — it is honesty, thoughtful adaptation, and appreciation for the tradition behind the drink.
Ceremonial matcha is often assumed to be ideal for lattes.

Jess’s perspective is that it is not ideal. Delicate ceremonial grades are easily overpowered by milk. A higher-quality barista blend or mid-to-high culinary grade works better and maintains balance. Every grade has its place, and understanding that helps matcha culture evolve more sustainably.

Jess prepares high-grade matcha in the mornings at home, following the sequences and teachings she studies with her sensei. This includes philosophical study as part of formal chanoyu practice. This quiet ritual forms the foundation of her relationship with tea. Her home practice is structured, intentional, and entirely centred on the Way of Tea.

The global matcha market faces challenges: mislabelling, unclear origins, and widespread use of the word ceremonial in ways that do not match the true definition. Customers deserve to receive the product they believe they are buying, and honest brands deserve recognition.

As customers make more informed choices, the market naturally shifts. Because different grades support different uses, encouraging correct application helps rebalance the industry rather than restrict it.

There is truly a matcha for every purpose.

Jess’s intention is not to discourage anyone from enjoying matcha in any form. She wants to uplift the businesses and individuals who are doing it well and encourage a culture of transparency, respect, and authentic appreciation.

Cape Town’s matcha moment is still unfolding — and with curiosity, honesty, and care, it has the potential to grow into something deeply rooted, meaningful, and sustainable.